Tzintzuntzan, the City of Hummingbirds

By Didi Rose

HISTORY

In pre-hispanic days, Tzintzuntzan (place of the hummingbirds in the purhepecha language) was the capitol of the Purhepecha empire, and had a population of around 40,000 people. It was located on a site in the hills above its current location. It was built on platforms, and rivaled Tenochtitlan as one of the leading cities of Mesoamerica.

The Purhepecha empire was the only Mesoamerican society that was not subjected by the Aztecs, who attacked three times, and who lost three times. Their land included all of the present day state of Michoacan, and much of the surrounding territory. The Purhepecha had technology, especially metallurgy skills, that were unknown anywhere else in Mesoamerica. Even their language is unique, unrelated to any indigenous North American language.

While there origins are unknown, it is believed they may have come from South America, from an area in what is now Peru, and some linguists (though not all) associate their language with the Chichban group. There are also borrowings from other languages, such as Zuni, which indicate that these were a trading people.

During the conflict between the Spanish invaders and the Aztec, the Aztec king sent messengers to Tzintzuntzan asking the Calzonzi, or king, to send troops to help their former enemy. The Calzonzi refused, and he had the messengers killed. Unbeknownst to him, one of the messengers had smallpox, and the Calzonzi was on of the first of the
Purhepecha to die of this dreaded disease.

After the Spaniards defeated the Aztecs and destroyed their capitol city, Cortez invited the new Calzonzi to see the destruction, and offered peace to the purhepecha if there was no resistance. Tangaxoan, the last Calzonzi, agreed, and the Spaniards came to Tzintzuntzan in 1523, and met no resistance. This began a reign of terror that led to the people completely abandoning the city, and hiding in the surrounding mountains. Smallpox killed about a third of the people. There was a valiant uprising led by a princess, Erendira, who stole the Spaniard?s horses and taught her people how to use them, but the rebellion didn?t last long. The first full length movie filmed in the purhepecha language is about Erendira and her rebellion.

Finally, Vasco de Quiroga was sent by the Spanish crown to undo the damage done by the conquistadors, and he set about trying to rebuild the city. The old city was dismantled, as was the Ceremonial center that we today call the Yacatas, and the stones were used to build the convent, and the churches and other buildings for the Spaniards. The location of the city was moved closer to the lake shore. These stones can still be seen today, many of them still have mythical figures from the old days carved in them. All that remains of the old city is the platforms on which it was built.

After the Spanish Conquest, Tzintzuntzan was given the title of Capital City of the Province of Michoacan in 1523. A few years later, Vasco de Quiroga moved the capital to Patzcuaro. The city lost its social and economic importance after 1539, becoming almost deserted.

In 1831, Tzintzuntzan became part of Quiroga municipality until 1930, when it constituted its own. There is a famous painting of President Lazaro Cardenas signing the act making Tzintzuntzan it?s own municipality, located in the Presidencia (municipal building).

Nowadays, the municipality has around 12,259 inhabitants, which work mainly in the agricultural sector. Fishing used to be the backbone of the local economy, but sadly, the fish population in the lake has been played out, and the people had to find other means of sustaining themselves. Some turned to vegetable fibers, the Tule and Bullrush (chuspata) that grow on the lake shore, and they learned how to turn them into beautiful designs for both practical and decorative purposes. In addition to the lake grasses, people also taught themselves to use other vegetable fibers, such as wheat straw and palm leaves, and the legacy of this artistic tradition remains strong today, with wonderful examples of the work for sale every day in the town’s plaza.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

The most important historical buildings that can be found in Tzintzuntzan are: Convento Franciscano, Templo de la Soledad and Templo de San Francisco. But the most striking feature of the city is the Yacatas, the old ceremonial center of the Purhepecha empire. These unique round pyramids, which are partially restored, are unlike any other that you will find in Mexico. There are five structures, each with a rectangular shaped side connected to a round portion. They have only been partially excavated and restored. There is no telling what treasure may lie buried in the structures no yet excavated. The views of the lake and the village from the great platform of the yacatas are spectacular.

The lake of Patzcuaro is another natural tourist attraction which provides a high esthetic value to the place. Tzintzuntzan boasts one of the few areas of private property along the lake shore, and contains many vacation homes for the wealthiest families from the State of Michoacan. People use the lake for boating, jet skiing and kayaking.

CULTURAL FEATURES

The primary crafts practiced in Tzintzuntzan revolve around vegetable fibers, but there is also a strong tradition of pottery, both simple terra cotta, and also high temperature ceramics. Tzintzuntzan boasts several internationally acclaimed potters, including Don Emilio Molinero Hurtado. Carved wood and cantera (carved limestone) are also very popular here. Pozole (pork soup with maize) and trout soup are the most popular and typical dishes of the zone.

The Day of the Dead celebration that takes place in November is very important to the people of Tzintzuntzan. It is the only prehispanic tradition that lives on to this day, and is one of the most important fiestas to take place in Tzintzuntzan. Other important cultural events are the Feast of our Lord of the Redemption (Nuestro Senor del Rescate) in February, and the feast of San Francisco, our patron saint. Tzintzuntzan is also reputed to have one of the most passionate celebrations of Holy Week (semana santa) in all of the state.

House for sale in Tzintzuntzan